The iconic palafitos in Castro
Still in Estero Pellu on Isla Apiao, we took a stroll along the coast at low tide to visit the community where we found the usual collection of boats on the beach, some in use some under construction and a church. We found several people busy on the beach working with seaweed that was drying in the Sun. They told us that they harvest the seaweed (that light green slightly rubbery sea lettuce type stuff) at low tide and also dive for it. We had seen many of the boats with rudimentary hookah dive systems on the deck but were not sure what they were diving for. Read more ›
The church at Metahue, Isla Buta Chauques
We spent a couple of days in Metahue observing life, chilling and doing chores. We saw the ferry arrive one evening bringing half a dozen people home from their travels and unloading their shopping which included not only the kitchen sink but a wood fired range and its chimney. There were sacks of animal feed, sheets of plywood for the new gymnasium and boxes of fruit for the shop.
Read more ›
Olga her big brother Victor and
the doll that Paula made
We have had a pleasant time so far in the Islas Chauques. We moved from Mechuque to Estero Voigue shortly after my last posting. This was a very scenic motor, of just a few miles, through an uncharted, twisting, passage between Mechuque, Anihue and some un-named islets. Read more ›
Artesanal fisherman returning to Bahia Corral, the boat
is called Sin Piedad (No Mercy)
The middle of November saw us almost at a stage where we were ready for sea; almost, I’ll write about the final little jobs in another post soon! So we started scrabbling around making the final arrangements, ordering fuel, paying the marina bill, provisioning etc.. Read more ›
The start point. You can see the patched up engine bed – I bolted on the aluminium t-section in the channels to stiffen it.
The back story – Some readers may remember that we had a problem with “Morgane’s” engine bed while we were in the Chilean channels on our way north ( I wrote about it in this post ). The repair that I made then had held for the rest of journey to Valdivia; but one of the reasons for staying in Valdivia over the winter had been to make a proper repair. Repair is rather a poor way to describe what we had to do; rip it all out and start again is what we really had to do. Read more ›
A section of one of the original plan sheets showing the original cockpit concept.
When ‘Morgane’ was designed she was drawn with a small cockpit, a deck hatch as an entrance companionway, and an aft cabin. This would have given a deep and protected cockpit with a high bridge-deck (the black line on the drawing) between the cockpit and the companionway. Getting from the cockpit to the companionway would have been scary in any kind of seaway.
As far as I know she wasn’t built like this; instead the builders dropped the bridge deck to the same level as the cockpit seats and sloped the companionway hatch (red lines on drawing). This made a much more protected bridge deck but made building the aft cabin impractical as it removed the head-room in the access way behind the engine. They instead opted for a hatch in the deck outboard, over where you see the double bed in the plan, and formed a lazarette (a useful place on a boat where you store junk broadly equivalent to a garden shed!). Read more ›
Early morning in Marina Estancilla
I flew out of Cape Town on 28th August; leaving the crew to make the final preparations to “Pelagic Australis” for her pre-season delivery trip to Stanley. Skip wrote about that on the Pelagic website here.
Paula met me in Santiago where we had rented an apartment for a few days via the Airbnb network. Read more ›
“Pelagic Australis” snuggled into the East Quay Boat Yard
While Paula has been beavering away in the rain of Valdivia (or Valluvia as she calls it) I have been busy working with Pelagic Expeditions on the annual refit of “Pelagic Australis” in Cape Town, South Africa.
I flew over in late June and have been busy since working as technical director with the team to prepare a very different style of yacht to “Morgane” for her forthcoming Antarctic season. Read more ›
The fruit of much labour
An update from Paula.
Here in Valdivia spring seems to be arriving, even though it’s very early. Maybe is el niño, I don’t know… still rains every day, but the days are getting longer, the birds are getting louder, and the trees are flowering. All these is good for the soul, as the winter is long, grey and wet around here. Chris has been away for… I don’t know… two months? too long anyway! And I’m missing him very much. We needed the coins for continuing with our adventure, and so he left. Being away for so long is not easy, and I trully hope we won’t need to do it again. Read more ›
Calle-Calle beer label
It’s been a month since I last wrote, and not much achieved. We left Marina Quinched on the 13th of April and navigated our way past many many mussel floats to Estero Tocuihue where we stayed the night before travelling the next day to Bahia manao which it right at the north eastern corner of Isla Chiloé. Read more ›